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Post by afadeev on Jan 10, 2017 11:35:55 GMT -5
Hi there! I've only driven my Rex for about 3 weeks (711mi. to date) and I got the "Drive Train Malfunction" alert. I wasn't driving at high speed...just getting out of the garage. I'm just getting to know my new car and have no idea what a Drive Train is and if it's a serious problem. How much driving can I do with this malfunction? If your REX is anything like mine, it will throw Check Engine Light (CEL) every time the ambient temps fluctuate by more than 40 degrees. Guaranteed every spring and fall, occasional during severe winter cold spells. Eventually, the CEL either goes away (after a few ignition cycles), or I find time to bring the car to the dealer. 2 years in, the dealer has never been able to replicate or identify the root cause of the problem. They do confirm CEL event (then and there, or in the past), and will either reset the CEL, or re-code the car. Or both. Repeat as necessary. Nothing to worry about. |
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Post by on Jun 8, 2017 16:36:18 GMT -5
Both my wife and I have i3's. We have been plagued with this drivetrain issue for the past year. Our car stalls totally unexpected, once when I was on the freeway. We've had both cars in for service several times. We have genuine concern for our safety. Seems no real communication among dealerships is occurring. I love the car but I don't feel like BMW is responding appropriately. I'm concerned we will experience this in traffic and have an accident.
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BMW i Owner Moderator
BMW i3 REx Owner
Electric Miles: 214000
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Post by tommoloughney on Jun 11, 2017 21:51:51 GMT -5
Both my wife and I have i3's. We have been plagued with this drivetrain issue for the past year. Our car stalls totally unexpected, once when I was on the freeway. We've had both cars in for service several times. We have genuine concern for our safety. Seems no real communication among dealerships is occurring. I love the car but I don't feel like BMW is responding appropriately. I'm concerned we will experience this in traffic and have an accident. Sorry to hear this, Marty. The drivetrain malfunction warnings aren't too uncommon but they are quite typically are benign. I've really never heard anyone report that the car "stalls" while being driven. Do you mean the range extender engine is stalling, or that the electric powertrain simply shuts off? Either way, the dealership should be able to read the stored codes to determine what's going on and fix it. If they aren't, then take it up a level and call the BMW i Concierge. |
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Post by on Sept 1, 2017 23:25:55 GMT -5
Here is my experience with BMW i3 “Driver Transmission Malfunction(DTM)” msg.
Try this, when msg "DTM" displays.
Exit car, remote lock your i3, walk off for 10-15 min., come back, and starts the car again. The "DTM" msg should be gone. You can D or R from P. If the check light engine(CEL) stays on, no worry; just drive for at least 5-8 miles or to your next destination and then park let the car rest for 5-10 min. and CEL should be off on next starts. I hope this works for your guys, It works for me 2 times in 1wk. How the DTM msg there is a long story. but going to make it short. I failed to charge at a local DCFC station msg was "unable to lock charger to charge" made 3 attempts. I guess that triggered the i3's computer and won't let it starts by displaying "DTM" msg for safety reasons? Anyhow hope this works for your guys and ease your worry.
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Post by davecuk on Sept 2, 2017 11:32:55 GMT -5
Here is my experience with BMW i3 “Driver Transmission Malfunction(DTM)” msg. Try this, when msg "DTM" displays. Exit car, remote lock your i3, walk off for 10-15 min., come back, and starts the car again. The "DTM" msg should be gone. You can D or R from P. If the check light engine(CEL) stays on, no worry; just drive for at least 5-8 miles or to your next destination and then park let the car rest for 5-10 min. and CEL should be off on next starts. I hope this works for your guys, It works for me 2 times in 1wk. How the DTM msg there is a long story. but going to make it short. I failed to charge at a local DCFC station msg was "unable to lock charger to charge" made 3 attempts. I guess that triggered the i3's computer and won't let it starts by displaying "DTM" msg for safety reasons? Anyhow hope this works for your guys and ease your worry. Is this not like sticking your head in the sand. Something is plainly wrong with the car and if under warranty, you should get it sorted out in case it gets worse. if your not under warranty...god help you and your wallet. |
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Post by on Sept 2, 2017 13:47:45 GMT -5
Calm down mate. Think about it. The i3 is like a washing machine. All it does is spin and get juice from the batteries instead of from the outlet directly. The main thing about the i3 is the software. Anyhow, I 240v charged to full last night and drove 70% this morning. Stopped and 240v chrg for 30min. Got 14 miles chrg and almost home. Stopped again and DCFC(EVgo) from 15% to 71% in 18 min. Got in car. Got the "DTM" msg. I locked and sitting outside, timing 10 min. Will be back and post my result. Seems like the Evgo'sDCFC station has something to do with i3's DCFC port.
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Post by on Sept 2, 2017 13:54:07 GMT -5
Ok, the 10 min. Did work. The "DTM" msg didn't displayed, I didn't get a chance to go from P to D because I was going to post the result on he last msg. I say with in 15 sec. the "DTM" msg came up. Unable to shift from P to D. I'm rest and give it 10 more min. Will be back. About 95 degree out here in SoCal btw.
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Post by on Sept 2, 2017 14:58:06 GMT -5
Following the prev. msg. I restarted the 10 min. wait, but actually starts the car again in 7 min.(hungry wife waiting at home for me to pick up the togo). As soon as the car came on, I turned off the AC(I recommend all accessories should be off, well my radio was still on  ). I shifted into D (notice the CEL on). Drove off about 1 mile to pick up ordered food. 10 min. later back to the car with normal start up (CEL still on). 3 mile away and I was home. Parked outside in an 85% shade area. Turned car off and back on to see if CEL still there. Still there. will keep you guys post later. I think the DCFC is heating up the battery and right now in SoCal, it is 95+ degrees. Listen up BMW. I believe there is a heating issue in using DCFC during hot weather. I'm going to lay-off using DCFC and stick to 240v charging at home to see any issues of "DTM" msg. Can't use my free ChargeNow program!  |
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Post by on Sept 3, 2017 1:58:59 GMT -5
Ok, so here is the final result of my "DTM" msg story plus "CEL" light was on. After parking my car at home for 8 hrs. I drove from the curb to near my garage(CEL still on)240v chrg to full(needs for tomorrow, weather about 85 degrees during this time, no sun). Chrg 1.5 hr(full), came home from dinner, starts and move the car to the curb again. "CEL" gone, everything is back to normal. At this point, I can safely conclude that my i3 software(up to date) has something to do with the DCFC charging(during hot weather maybe?) and the 240v charge helps reset the car "CEL" and or "DTM" msg. If I get a chance. I will try and test this out by DCFC my car again to see if I will get a "DTM" msg, I will let the car rest 10 min. and then restarts the car. If I get "CEL" afterward, I will move my car to a 240v chrgr and chrg right away for maybe 30min. - 1 hr(hope this cycle the system) just to see if the "CEL" will go away.
So, no worry guys, I think it is just the software that needs to be updated with the DCFC charging that's all. Just like the REX, it has 2.4 U.S gal. but the car will stop working at 1.9 U.S gal. although you still have .5 U.S gal. left in the car. That's because the damn software tells the computer to stop at 1.9 U.S gal. This means BMW can make you go service your car at anytime they want. Just program a date and WOOP there it is...smh.
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Post by on Sept 9, 2017 10:19:59 GMT -5
So, I stopped DCFC for a week now. Just 120v at work and 240v charge at home. And yesterday I tried DCFC my car. Battery at 40%, outside weather 69 degrees. Charged for 15 min. Battery is up 83%. Starts car with no accessories on and drive off without "DTM and or "CEL" issues. So, at 95 degrees using DCFC I get "DTM" and "CEL". Definitely the i3 has issues with DCFC heating/cooling battery and or software controlling issues. I hope BMW is reading this.
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Post by davecuk on Sept 10, 2017 4:32:12 GMT -5
So, I stopped DCFC for a week now. Just 120v at work and 240v charge at home. And yesterday I tried DCFC my car. Battery at 40%, outside weather 69 degrees. Charged for 15 min. Battery is up 83%. Starts car with no accessories on and drive off without "DTM and or "CEL" issues. So, at 95 degrees using DCFC I get "DTM" and "CEL". Definitely the i3 has issues with DCFC heating/cooling battery and or software controlling issues. I hope BMW is reading this. They probably are not reading this and all of you guys taking it to the dealers under warranty...just remember that warranty doesn't last for ever. What's it going to cost when you have to run it into the dealer then? Perhaps the dealers are going to say...oh yeah they all have that problem...we will fix it free? |
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Post by afadeev on Sept 10, 2017 12:30:15 GMT -5
Hi there! I've only driven my Rex for about 3 weeks (711mi. to date) and I got the "Drive Train Malfunction" alert. I wasn't driving at high speed...just getting out of the garage. I'm just getting to know my new car and have no idea what a Drive Train is and if it's a serious problem. How much driving can I do with this malfunction? When I had a REX (early lease returned in favor of BEV), I used to get "Drive Train Malfunction" alerts every spring, and every fall. Multiple times. First few times I was concerned and rushed appointments with the dealer. They did not know what to do, other than reset the error and update the software on the car (when applicable). That fixed nothing. Later on, I just learned to deal with it and ignore the error. It would reset itself after ~50-100 miles of driving with no lasting ill effects. I did not need to limit your driving distance or speed. Just keep doing what you are doing, and if this is an intermittent problem, the light will reset itself. If it's a persistent problem, you will gather ore faults for the dealer to diagnose the root cause. If you are new to REX ownership, you may choose to setup a dealer service visit to alleviate your concerns. Chances are they will find nothing, will reset the indicator light, and sent you on your way. If you've seen this error a few times already, relax, cycle ignition on/off a few times, and the light will go away ~25% of the time. For the other 75%, either have dealer reset it, or keep driving, and it should go away if the issue does not resurface again. Hope this helps, a P.S.: With the BEV, I am yet to see this error. My bets are that it is REX engine/gas tank related. |
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Post by davecuk on Sept 13, 2017 7:57:53 GMT -5
Hi there! I've only driven my Rex for about 3 weeks (711mi. to date) and I got the "Drive Train Malfunction" alert. I wasn't driving at high speed...just getting out of the garage. I'm just getting to know my new car and have no idea what a Drive Train is and if it's a serious problem. How much driving can I do with this malfunction? Later on, I just learned to deal with it and ignore the error. It would reset itself after ~50-100 miles of driving with no lasting ill effects. I did not need to limit your driving distance or speed. Just keep doing what you are doing, and if this is an intermittent problem, the light will reset itself. If it's a persistent problem, you will gather ore faults for the dealer to diagnose the root cause. If you are new to REX ownership, you may choose to setup a dealer service visit to alleviate your concerns. Chances are they will find nothing, will reset the indicator light, and sent you on your way. If you've seen this error a few times already, relax, cycle ignition on/off a few times, and the light will go away ~25% of the time. For the other 75%, either have dealer reset it, or keep driving, and it should go away if the issue does not resurface again. Hope this helps, a P.S.: With the BEV, I am yet to see this error. My bets are that it is REX engine/gas tank related. The only slight problem with this advice is for people with cars over 3 years old and no longer under warranty. If they have the BMW insured warranty and ignore errors, then they invalidate the warranty cover. if they don't have that warranty and ignore errors, getting it fixed under goodwill would be very difficult. At least this is the case in the UK. Your US dealerships/warranty extension conditions may be far more charitable than ours. interesting about it being Rex related, it may well be, although I got the error after 170 miles on the Rex, no problem, switched back to electric only and 30 miles later...drive train error? |
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Post by afadeev on Sept 14, 2017 11:36:49 GMT -5
Later on, I just learned to deal with it and ignore the error. It would reset itself after ~50-100 miles of driving with no lasting ill effects. I did not need to limit your driving distance or speed. Just keep doing what you are doing, and if this is an intermittent problem, the light will reset itself. If it's a persistent problem, you will gather ore faults for the dealer to diagnose the root cause. If you are new to REX ownership, you may choose to setup a dealer service visit to alleviate your concerns. Chances are they will find nothing, will reset the indicator light, and sent you on your way. If you've seen this error a few times already, relax, cycle ignition on/off a few times, and the light will go away ~25% of the time. For the other 75%, either have dealer reset it, or keep driving, and it should go away if the issue does not resurface again. Hope this helps, a P.S.: With the BEV, I am yet to see this error. My bets are that it is REX engine/gas tank related. The only slight problem with this advice is for people with cars over 3 years old and no longer under warranty. I'm not sure where you are, but in the US, i3 is covered by BMW's 4 yr/50,000 mile warranty. Given that i3 went on sale as MY14/CY14 (in the US), all should still be under warranty through some point in 2018. Unless, that is, you managed to clock more than 50K miles on the car. If they have the BMW insured warranty and ignore errors, then they invalidate the warranty cover. if they don't have that warranty and ignore errors, getting it fixed under goodwill would be very difficult. At least this is the case in the UK. Your US dealerships/warranty extension conditions may be far more charitable than ours. The point is that the "drive-train malfunction" is a catch-all error, similar to what used to be a "gas tank cap not tight enough" check-engine light that plagued BMWs late 90s (when ODBII first came out in the US). If the error is intermittent and not reoccurring for dealer to reproduce on demand, it can not be conclusively diagnosed nor repaired by the dealer. Thus freaking out about every random occurrence becomes pointless. w.r.t. warranty inference: can you please cite the relevant BMW warranty clause that mandates specific dealership appointment turn-around time after seeing a warning light? I do not believe there is one! If the problem is real and reproducible, go the the dealer and fix it. Especially if it's free under warranty. If the problem is intermittent, can't be conclusively addressed, and reoccurs seasonally, feel free to visit dealer each and every time, or move on with your life. interesting about it being Rex related, it may well be, although I got the error after 170 miles on the Rex, no problem, switched back to electric only and 30 miles later...drive train error? I don't believe it's related to actually actively using REX. Rather, any vacuum leaks in air intake, stretched rubber fittings, or pressure changes in the gas tank or fuel lines, engine, or in between, will throw off a CE light. Changes in ambient temps expand/contract the fittings in all of the above, leading for plenty of opportunities for innocuous and intermittent CE lights. If the conditions does not reoccur regularly, the CE light we get automatically reset by the car itself. Usually after 50 miles or X-many hours of operation. YMMV, a |
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Post by davecuk on Sept 15, 2017 3:47:30 GMT -5
The only slight problem with this advice is for people with cars over 3 years old and no longer under warranty. I'm not sure where you are, but in the US, i3 is covered by BMW's 4 yr/50,000 mile warranty. Given that i3 went on sale as MY14/CY14 (in the US), all should still be under warranty through some point in 2018. Unless, that is, you managed to clock more than 50K miles on the car. If they have the BMW insured warranty and ignore errors, then they invalidate the warranty cover. if they don't have that warranty and ignore errors, getting it fixed under goodwill would be very difficult. At least this is the case in the UK. Your US dealerships/warranty extension conditions may be far more charitable than ours. The point is that the "drive-train malfunction" is a catch-all error, similar to what used to be a "gas tank cap not tight enough" check-engine light that plagued BMWs late 90s (when ODBII first came out in the US). If the error is intermittent and not reoccurring for dealer to reproduce on demand, it can not be conclusively diagnosed nor repaired by the dealer. Thus freaking out about every random occurrence becomes pointless. w.r.t. warranty inference: can you please cite the relevant BMW warranty clause that mandates specific dealership appointment turn-around time after seeing a warning light? I do not believe there is one! If the problem is real and reproducible, go the the dealer and fix it. Especially if it's free under warranty. If the problem is intermittent, can't be conclusively addressed, and reoccurs seasonally, feel free to visit dealer each and every time, or move on with your life. interesting about it being Rex related, it may well be, although I got the error after 170 miles on the Rex, no problem, switched back to electric only and 30 miles later...drive train error? I don't believe it's related to actually actively using REX. Rather, any vacuum leaks in air intake, stretched rubber fittings, or pressure changes in the gas tank or fuel lines, engine, or in between, will throw off a CE light. Changes in ambient temps expand/contract the fittings in all of the above, leading for plenty of opportunities for innocuous and intermittent CE lights. If the conditions does not reoccur regularly, the CE light we get automatically reset by the car itself. Usually after 50 miles or X-many hours of operation. YMMV, a In the UK and we only get a 3 year warranty For the BMW Insured warranty scheme, which you can take out once the warranty expires (in the UK that's 3 years as mentioned previously). BMW Insured Warranty Handbook, Page 4 Para 1 and 2 ADDITIONAL CONDITIONS FOR THE BMW i3 WARRANTY.
The terms and conditions of the BMW i3 Warranty listed below must be adhered to. Failure to do so may result in the rejection of a claim or termination
of your cover. This does not affect your statutory rights.
1. Your warranty may be invalidated if you continue to drive your vehicle when a fault becomes apparent. Any defects must be reported to a BMW i Service Authorised Workshop as quickly as possible. A minor defect corrected now could prevent you from being inconvenienced in the future.
The point I was trying to make and have been trying to make is that you can only give the advice to ignore it to people who are still under manufacturers warranty, one they are not, the advice is not necessarily great advice. Especially as you don't really know what's causing it? In the UK people all have the same easy attitude to faults, or problems. Once the car is out of warranty though and every dealer visit hurts, they suddenly become a lot more worried about faults. Now it does appear that your warranty terms are a lot better than ours (longer) and UK consumers could learn a lot from this. We are too willing to accept poor value and find it easy to put our hands in our pockets. |
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). I shifted into D (notice the CEL on). Drove off about 1 mile to pick up ordered food. 10 min. later back to the car with normal start up (CEL still on). 3 mile away and I was home. Parked outside in an 85% shade area. Turned car off and back on to see if CEL still there. Still there. will keep you guys post later. I think the DCFC is heating up the battery and right now in SoCal, it is 95+ degrees. Listen up BMW. I believe there is a heating issue in using DCFC during hot weather. I'm going to lay-off using DCFC and stick to 240v charging at home to see any issues of "DTM" msg. Can't use my free ChargeNow program! 
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